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Fishing in Bilbao
March 1, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
Frank Gehry likes fish. Considered by many as the leading architect of our time, Gehry turned to fish for inspiration when his team started looking to Greek classicism. Go back further, he said, to the beginning of life in the murk.
Gehry created enormous fish sculptures in Barcelona, Minneapolis, and Kobe, and ichthyic-shaped items appear in his other endeavors such as a jewelry line for Tiffany & Co.
As for Gehry’s iconic building for the Guggenheim in Bilbao, creatures more noticeable here than fish are Jeff Koons’ 40-foot Puppy and Louis Bourgeois’ 33-foot Maman spider. But the shimmer of 30,000 undulating sheets of titanium echo shiny scales and the position of the museum on the river that snakes through this industrial city reinforces the association.
This stunning museum is the focal point of the architectural revolution that won the city a world prize for urban development, but form lovers also seek out “Zubuzuri,” Santiago Calatrava’s white tied arch footbridge; the “fosteritos”– curved glass entrances – that mark Metro stations designed by Sir Norman Foster; and the triangular prism Iberdrola skyscraper recently completed by Cesar Pelli.
No one in his right mind would go fishing in Bilbao’s rust-colored Nervion River. However, the Basque region is celebrated for its cuisine, including the ubiquitous salt cod. So as you savor a dish of bacalao a la Vizcaina, ponder how a lowly 300 million-year-old creature resuscitated a bleak industrial city in northern Spain, transforming it into a must-see destination for art and design aficionados from around the world.
Cuba: A Firsthand Account
February 28, 2012
George Metes and Jean Sanborn report on their favorite experiences during their recent trip to Cuba.
On arriving in Havana we were introduced to “habaneros” at the Sunday Callejon de Hamel Santoria celebration, which was the perfect way to introduce us, people-to-people, to the creativity and energy of the Cubans. On the planned itinerary we visited several artists’ studios, the Ceramics Museum and the large Fine Arts Museum, dancers, singers, and lively kids performing, thus seeing a range of art and learning how the Cuban artists interact with the larger art world.
Informal opportunities to interact with Cubans were plentiful. We had enough free time in Havana to get out and meet people and explore areas off the main tourist track. We already knew the generally cheerful energy of the Cuban people; we discovered how safe and clean Havana is despite the crumbling infrastructure.
The opportunities to eat on our own led us not only to a paladar for a moonlit meal in a beautiful home full of art but also to Los Nardos, the hugely popular national restaurant down the street from the hotel where we got to chat with Cubans also waiting for a table. As in the paladares, we enjoyed wonderful music in the national restaurant. (Contrary to what we had been led to believe, Cuban food is not all rice and beans).
We owe a tremendous debt of gratitude to the organizers and leaders of this trip; everyone gave their time, their creativity, their energy, their patience, their wide-ranging knowledge of Cuba, and their good humor to make this such a special week.
Meet Susan Cassidy
February 24, 2012
For anyone who has traveled with Academic Arrangements Abroad, our seasoned Tour Directors need no introduction. They distinguish our programs as much as our innovative itineraries, private visits and renowned lecturers. Today, find out a little more about Tour Director Susan Cassidy in this Tour Director Q&A.
Hometown: I’m a Native New Yorker and couldn’t dream of a better place than Manhattan.
Tour you most enjoyed: I thoroughly enjoyed the two times I went to the Galapagos and the Amazon Rain forest—so much to see and learn, though South Africa is a close second.
City or country you would drop everything to go see: I would drop everything to go anywhere I haven’t already been!
The last tour you were on: I was on was Turin and Villa d’Este in October. What a lovely time to be in Italy.
Special skills: I speak French and Italian and have a Master’s in Anthropology and am VERY organized!!
3 things you can’t travel without: I always take a backscratcher and inflatable hanger on EVERY TRIP!! And I do ALWAYS travel with a third thing I forgot–MY PEARLS–they make everything look good!!
Favorite historical figure: I’m interested in women throughout history and like Georges Sand, Mary, Queen of Scots (who was a VERY poor decision maker!), and Coco Chanel.
Words of wisdom for fellow travelers: Always be flexible when traveling and keep a sense of humor. Things can change!!
Number of years tour directing: I’ve been doing trips for AAA for about 16 years and have worked in about 25 countries!!
Beyond Tulips
February 21, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
If you have to wonder how anyone might be able to write 388 pages about tulips or why anyone would want to read said tome, then perhaps a trip with a garden focus is not for you.
The distinguished British garden authority Anna Pavord in fact did write a fascinating history of tulips, a bestseller no less, complete with tales of trekking in desolate areas searching for rare species; Turkish sultans who required guests to dress in colors that matched their tulips; and a single bulb selling for the same price as the most expensive house in Amsterdam in the 1630s.
The author of numerous other books on gardening and the gardening correspondent for The Independent, Pavord will be the study leader on an upcoming cruise that focuses on the lush tropical gardens of the Caribbean. Obviously passionate about her subject, Pavord is a riveting lecturer. Even the most unapologetic black thumb will be drawn into her observations about rare orchids and bromeliads, Ixora, Heliconia, and Balisier. You will never look at a Bird of Paradise the same way again.
Happy 300th Birthday, Old Fritz!
February 3, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
This year Germany is celebrating the tercentenary of the birth of one of history’s most interesting rulers, Frederick the Great. Books, performances of his symphonies, lectures, a play, parades and architectural tours all compete for attention from those keen on learning more about the “enlightened despot” who ruled Prussia for 46 years.
The fact that Frederick II was an art collector and arts patron, as well as an intellectual who spoke many languages and read voraciously on many topics justifies the descriptor “enlightened.” As for “despot,” historians can tick off the battles forged, lives lost and territories annexed in his role as military commander.
Many handsome buildings Frederick had built-in Berlin exist today, including the Berlin State Opera. And in Potsdam, there is the newly restored Neues Palais, which will open major areas never before available to the public in honor of this anniversary. However, the yellow, rococo Sans Souci palace in Potsdam was his retreat. Here he died here peacefully and it is here you may find a simple stone slab marking his grave (after numerous moves due to politics over the years).
Bring a potato to leave. Read the following January 24 article from The New York Times to find out why.
The Met Meets “The Lady”
January 31, 2012
By Christine Pagnani
“Extraordinary and inspirational”…these were emotions felt by all twenty-seven Met members and myself as we were warmly received by “The Lady,” as she is affectionately called by her devoted followers. Aung San Suu Kyi, elegant, intelligent and gracious, yet formidable enough to “move a dozen elephants” personally greeted each one of us at her residence on a glorious Sunday morning. She engaged in conversations including art, culture, theater (all in her favorite city Manhattan), public health, land reforms and of course, economics and government as we sipped tea on her veranda overlooking the river. Suu Kyi entered politics to work towards the democratization of her country… hoping to eliminate diversity and fear by empowering confidence in her people of Burma.
As we thanked “The Lady” and said our goodbyes, she walked the group, arm-in-arm with a Museum member, down the bougainvillea-lined driveway to the coach. January 22, 2012, was indeed a historic moment for all of us… it’s forever etched in my memory.
Egypt
January 27, 2012
By Clive Porter
The restaurant in downtown Cairo was empty compared to visits in years passed. There was no taxi outside when we left so we decided to walk to our hotel. Within a few minutes we were crossing Tahrir Square, once a bus station amid pulsing traffic, now a beacon for freedom in Egypt and throughout the region.
On a Thursday evening in early January it was peaceful: some traffic to dodge as we crossed to the middle were the scene was reminiscent of the Occupy protests around the world: banners; some tents; people hanging around but a far cry from the mass demonstrations of the last twelve months.
We wandered across the square, took a few photographs, continued by the Nile and reached our hotel.
All very easy and normal.
Our experience during the remainder of the trip was exactly the same. Indeed, everything was easier than before as so few other people were visiting the country. At the Egyptian Museum we could linger in front of Tutankhamen: no crowds jostling us and urging us to move on. We were alone in the tomb of Ramses IV on the West Bank in Luxor. Many of the vendors shops were closed in the usually bustling market outside Edfu temple. And we could photograph the temples at Abu Simbel with not a soul in the pictures.
There is nowhere like Egypt. No other country has the pyramids and temples and tombs. Contrary to what the Greeks may claim, much of Western civilisation began in Egypt. Anybody with a love of travel has to see Egypt at least once. This is the time to go. While it is without the crowds and in the knowledge that visitors are exactly what this tourist-dependent country needs as it seeks a new course into the future.
Temple of Ramses, Abu Simbel.
Questions for Aung San Suu Kyi?
January 17, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
A group from Academic Arrangements Abroad will be meeting with Burmese political leader and Nobel Peace Prize recipient Aung San Suu Kyi this Sunday, January 22, 2012.
Please click comment* to post your question. We will get your inquiries to the group leader and hope to answer them in this blog next week, along with a summary of the meeting.
*The comment section will appear to the right of this post.
A Caribbean Quiz
January 11, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
Calling all sailors and Caribbean buffs! Which Caribbean island is, at only a third of the size of Manhattan, the largest of the 32 Grenadine islands? Its S-shape is covered in rolling green hills and its shores boast beautiful white-sand beaches lined with almond and cedar trees and picturesque yacht-filled harbors.
Just try meandering down the waterfront Belmont Walkway without stopping for a Hairoun beer or callaloo soup.
Visit a turtle sanctuary and a whaling museum (it is still legal to hunt humpback whales here) or purchase a well-crafted model boat. If you’ve finished your reading material, seek out its excellent bookstore.
Alexander Hamilton’s father was a longtime resident.
Which island is it?
Bequia (pronounced BECK-way)!
*For more information about Bequia’s Wildlife Protection and Conservation at Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary, please visit http://www.tourwrist.com/tours/995 for an interactive tour or contact Orton “Brother” King at oldhegg@vincysurf.com.
Orton King at Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary.
What is French for “Yum!”?
January 6, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
If you haven’t heard of Paul Bocuse, we suggest you put down your frozen dinner and hightail it to Lyon. Named the “Chef of the Century” by the Culinary Institute of America last year, the 85-year-old Bocuse has earned three Michelin stars without fail since 1965 for his traditional French cooking at Auberge du Pont de Collonges.
Set in his childhood home on the Saône River, the restaurant was run by his father until 1958. To give you a notion of how he feels about tradition, Bocuse still sleeps in his childhood bedroom.
During his more than 50 years in the kitchen, Bocuse has served presidents and celebrities and mentored some of the world’s most renowned chefs, including Daniel Boulud and Jean-George Vongerichten, who speak of him with reverence. He does not don his toque these days, but does oversee this and other restaurants and a small hotel in addition to his culinary institute and annual cooking contest.
What might you find on the menu? His most famous dishes are truffle soup in a puff pastry and Bresse chicken cooked in a pig’s bladder. Those with an aversion to fungi or on Lipitor should stay clear.
Eighty euros for a bowl of soup? Mais oui. But Ooh la la!
View of Lyon across the Saône River. Photo © Yenwen Lu.
