Discover the World with Arrangements Abroad
For the intellectually curious traveler
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Far East Meets Northern Europe
May 10, 2012
By Ingrid Ahlgren
Sweden seems an unlikely place for a Chinese pavilion. However, the grounds of Stockholm’s Drottningholm Palace are home to an extraordinary Chinese-inspired edifice constructed in 1753. At the time, trade with the Far East was booming, and Europeans were fascinated by all things Asian.
The structure, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built by King Adolf Fredrik as a birthday present for Queen Lovisa Ulrika. The surprised queen described the pleasure palace as “the most beautiful you can see.”
During the 1760s, the original Chinese Pavilion, a prefabricated wooden house, was replaced by a sturdier one, which has a rococo interior with Oriental influences. The historic landmark made news headlines in 2010, when thieves broke into the building, shattered display cases and stole a number of valuable Chinese objects.
The pavilion at Drottningholm isn’t the only Chinese-influenced structure constructed by European royalty. In the early 1900s, Belgium’s King Leopold II created a Chinese Pavilion in Brussels. Today it is part of the Museums of the Far East, which house a fine collection of Asian ceramics and art.
Two of Antalya’s Classical Sites
May 8, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
Situated in one of the many picturesque inlets of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast is Antalya, gateway to the important cities from antiquity, Aspendos and Perge.
The main draw of Aspendos, approximately 30 miles east of Antalya, is its impressive 20,000-seat theater, which has presented everything from gladiator battles to recent opera and ballet performances. Built in the latter half of the first century C.E., it is exceptionally well preserved, beautifully proportioned and boasts excellent acoustics. In the 13th century, the theater was converted into a palace by the Seljuk Turks, an act that in some ways preserved the structure by covering it with bricks. In addition to the theater, seek out the remains of structures including a 50-foot-tall aqueduct and the nymphaeum (sanctuary to water nymphs).
Closer to Antalya is Perge, which was founded in 1,000 B.C.E. and is name-checked in none other than the Bible. According to the book of Acts, St. Paul visited Perge twice in 46 A.D., once giving a sermon there. After the Roman Empire officially adopted Christianity, Perge became an important ecclesiastical city. But the vestiges of buildings here are mostly not related to religion. Instead, visitors can see a theater with wonderful marble reliefs detailing the life of Dionysus and a stadium with shops identifying their proprietors and wares with inscriptions. The Pergeans enjoyed their shopping: In addition to an agora (marketplace), Perge also had the precursor to an outdoor mall. A covered walkway once housed shops on both sides of a long reflecting pool that acted as air-conditioning.
Back in the city, don’t miss the Antalya Museum, which has a sizeable and excellent collection of statuary from Perge in addition to ancient coins, icons, mosaics and much more.
The Stone Beauty
April 12, 2012 — 1 Comment
By Anastasia Mills Healy
The word “Trogir” sounds like the name of a fearsome Tolkien troll king and its ancient Greek meaning, “isle of goats,” does it no favors either. But the Croatian town of Trogir enchants visitors with its small island charm and meticulously preserved buildings that tell its 2,300-year history.
The Greeks first settled this island in the third century B.C.E. and its nearly uninterrupted human occupation since, with architectural vestiges from many eras of rule (including Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian), earned this delightful spot a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. It is unusual to find a gathering of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings, all beautifully maintained, within such a small radius. But Trogir is not only remarkable for its edifices: urban planners are fascinated by how the streets still follow their original grid and that its two main roads have been in use since the town began.
Meander through Trogir’s narrow, winding streets, lined with churches and palaces. Of particular note is the main square with its medieval loggia and clock tower, the graceful façade of Cipko Palace and the pièce de resistance, St. Lawrence Cathedral. The cathedral’s western door is an outstanding Romanesque work by the famous Croatian architect and sculptor Radovan. Study his masterful carvings: scenes from the Nativity, the life of Christ, and Adam and Eve on either side of the door, both perched on lions.
After exploring the highlights of Trogir, linger over a coffee, an ice cream or a lunch of freshly caught fish at one of the cafes dotting the waterfront promenade. As you sit back and admire the homes and streets built from ancient sun-soaked stones, with their exquisite architectural details, you will understand why locals call Trogir “The Stone Beauty.”
Slow Going: Travel by Riverboat
March 12, 2012
There’s no disco on a riverboat, no rock climbing wall, no water park, no casino and no choice of 25 restaurants. What you do get is a serene vacation, a cabin with a water view, personalized attention and meals handcrafted with locally sourced ingredients and wines.
Riverboats can maneuver into smaller ports thereby allowing direct entrée to exquisite places like châteaux, floating markets and vineyards. You have immediate access to the imposing cathedrals and masterpieces of art in the charming villages on your route. Join a walking tour or grab a bike and go explore – no need to travel out of the way to get to where a big cruise ship can dock, and then tender back and forth in a sea of people.
No crowds, no herding, no hurry. Just sophisticated, like-minded travelers who discuss Rotterdam’s inventive architecture or the van Goghs seen in Arles that day.
Take time to smell the tulips on a glorious springtime cruise along Dutch and Belgian waterways. Admire chateau gardens, Roman ruins and the enchanting cities and pastoral landscapes of Provence.
I bet you won’t miss for a minute getting lost en route to the ice show or waiting more than an hour to disembark.
By Anastasia Mills Healy
Cuba: A Firsthand Account
February 28, 2012
George Metes and Jean Sanborn report on their favorite experiences during their recent trip to Cuba.
On arriving in Havana we were introduced to “habaneros” at the Sunday Callejon de Hamel Santoria celebration, which was the perfect way to introduce us, people-to-people, to the creativity and energy of the Cubans. On the planned itinerary we visited several artists’ studios, the Ceramics Museum and the large Fine Arts Museum, dancers, singers, and lively kids performing, thus seeing a range of art and learning how the Cuban artists interact with the larger art world.
Informal opportunities to interact with Cubans were plentiful. We had enough free time in Havana to get out and meet people and explore areas off the main tourist track. We already knew the generally cheerful energy of the Cuban people; we discovered how safe and clean Havana is despite the crumbling infrastructure.
The opportunities to eat on our own led us not only to a paladar for a moonlit meal in a beautiful home full of art but also to Los Nardos, the hugely popular national restaurant down the street from the hotel where we got to chat with Cubans also waiting for a table. As in the paladares, we enjoyed wonderful music in the national restaurant. (Contrary to what we had been led to believe, Cuban food is not all rice and beans).
We owe a tremendous debt of gratitude to the organizers and leaders of this trip; everyone gave their time, their creativity, their energy, their patience, their wide-ranging knowledge of Cuba, and their good humor to make this such a special week.
Beyond Tulips
February 21, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
If you have to wonder how anyone might be able to write 388 pages about tulips or why anyone would want to read said tome, then perhaps a trip with a garden focus is not for you.
The distinguished British garden authority Anna Pavord in fact did write a fascinating history of tulips, a bestseller no less, complete with tales of trekking in desolate areas searching for rare species; Turkish sultans who required guests to dress in colors that matched their tulips; and a single bulb selling for the same price as the most expensive house in Amsterdam in the 1630s.
The author of numerous other books on gardening and the gardening correspondent for The Independent, Pavord will be the study leader on an upcoming cruise that focuses on the lush tropical gardens of the Caribbean. Obviously passionate about her subject, Pavord is a riveting lecturer. Even the most unapologetic black thumb will be drawn into her observations about rare orchids and bromeliads, Ixora, Heliconia, and Balisier. You will never look at a Bird of Paradise the same way again.
Happy 300th Birthday, Old Fritz!
February 3, 2012
By Anastasia Mills Healy
This year Germany is celebrating the tercentenary of the birth of one of history’s most interesting rulers, Frederick the Great. Books, performances of his symphonies, lectures, a play, parades and architectural tours all compete for attention from those keen on learning more about the “enlightened despot” who ruled Prussia for 46 years.
The fact that Frederick II was an art collector and arts patron, as well as an intellectual who spoke many languages and read voraciously on many topics justifies the descriptor “enlightened.” As for “despot,” historians can tick off the battles forged, lives lost and territories annexed in his role as military commander.
Many handsome buildings Frederick had built-in Berlin exist today, including the Berlin State Opera. And in Potsdam, there is the newly restored Neues Palais, which will open major areas never before available to the public in honor of this anniversary. However, the yellow, rococo Sans Souci palace in Potsdam was his retreat. Here he died here peacefully and it is here you may find a simple stone slab marking his grave (after numerous moves due to politics over the years).
Bring a potato to leave. Read the following January 24 article from The New York Times to find out why.
Performing Arts in Cuba
December 26, 2011
I was fortunate enough to lead our company’s first trip to Cuba since 2003, and was thrilled to find that the Cuban art world is thriving. Our trips are focused on interaction with locals, so we were able to meet, talk to, and enjoy performances by a surprising variety of artists and performers. Here’s a glimpse at two of my favorite performances:
In Havana we attended a rehearsal of the Contemporary Dance Company of Cuba in their studio. During most of the rehearsal, a bongo player and singer provided live music and filled the room with energy as their songs became more and more up tempo. Later the male dancers joined in as the group practiced a new routine for an upcoming performance. We were all envious of their talent, and surprised at how quickly the time flew by while we were watching! Here’s a short video clip of their rehearsal:
Los Cantores de Cienfuegos serenaded us with a variety of popular Latin American and Spanish songs, as well an American song sung so beautifully that sent chills down my spine. The acoustics were fantastic, and the group was very friendly and happy to answer all of our questions. (I didn’t include a clip because it just doesn’t do the group justice!)
The Cantores told us that there is an intense audition process to become a member, and that the group practices nearly every day. They really treat this as their job. Many went to school to become musicians, and play instruments and practice their own music on the side.
I hope you enjoyed these clips and photos as much as we enjoyed the performances!
Triggerfish With a View
December 20, 2011
By Anastasia Mills Healy
Usually it’s either a memorable view or an amazingly good meal – rarely do the two go together. But on St. Lucia, nestled high between the lush twin volcanic Piton peaks, is the Ladera Resort whose restaurant, Dasheene, is laid out in such a way that most every table is treated to a jaw-dropping vista of the azure Caribbean.
Chef Orlando Satchell sources many ingredients from local plantations, farms and fishermen. You might find on the menu sweet potato and coconut soup, Caribbean lamb salad, roast conch, sugar cane shrimp and a daily catch such as red snapper or triggerfish, prepared with West Indian flare.
When was the last time you perused a menu offering christophene, callaloo and shadow bennie?
All That Glitters
December 14, 2011
By Anastasia Mills Healy
Any Sicilian guide can confirm the predictable reaction of people when they first see the shimmering golden mosaics in the Palatine Chapel in the Palace of the Norman Kings. Widened eyes are often accompanied by a dropped jaw, intake of breath and an exclamation of wonder.
This chapel, which is at the center of the Palazzo Reale in Palermo, shines from floor to ceiling with 12th-century Byzantine mosaics. Elegantly portrayed figures are masterfully crafted and set in a luminous gold backdrop. The brilliance of color married with the superior technique and radiance of these mosaics earn the stunned silence of viewers.
The mosaics illustrate scenes from the Bible and include Adam and Eve, each with a piece of fruit in their mouth and reaching for more. Christ Pantocrator looks down from the center of the cupola, with angels encircling the dome.
The chapel and the palace have fascinating histories, having been built over the centuries by Arabs and Spaniards on the former site of Roman and Punic fortresses. The architecture is a lovely mix of Arabic, Norman and Byzantine styles. Of special note is the Arab muqarnas (honeycomb) painted wooden ceiling. While you’re looking up, take in the details of the 15-foot Paschal candelabrum: See lions with their prey, birds, humans and intricately rendered foliage including acanthus leaves.
Plan to spend at least an hour here to fully experience the majesty of this awe-inspiring chapel.
